How to - Install your RAD MAG Powered Mount

Powered receiver - complete install guide

Step 01 - Prep

Wipe & dry the glass

Use the included isopropyl prep wipe to clean the mounting spot. Wait for it to flash-dry - 10–20 seconds. Fully dry glass gives the best 3M VHB bond.

Step 02 - Mount

Press firmly, wait 24 hrs

Press the receiver from the centre outward for 30 seconds minimum - never press on the logo side. Leave undisturbed for 24 hours before loading the detector.

Step 03 - Wire & drive

Connect power, snap in

Connect switched 12V via mirror tap or fuse tap (see below). Snap the detector arm onto the mount and start driving.

Before you mount

Get the position right

Where you place the receiver decides how well the detector works and whether you can get it off again. Two things matter most.

1

Mount it level with the horizon

Sit the detector so it looks straight down the road - that's how it detects radar the best.
2

Leave 2.5 cm of clearance at the front

You remove the detector by tilting its front up to release the lip, then twisting and pulling it off the magnet. Keep at least 2.5 cm between the front-top of the detector and the headliner so it has room to lift and unlatch.

Minimum clearance for unlatching: 2.5 cm between the front of the detector and the headliner.

Found your spot? Prep the glass (below) before you mount it.

Time

20–30 min

Difficulty

Intermediate

Tools

Trim tool, fuse tap*

Wiring — Choose Your Power Option

RAD MAG ships with one of two power tails depending on what you ordered. Follow the matching option below — the detector simply snaps onto the mount once power is connected.

Easiest

Option A — Mirror Tap

Spade-plug tail. Plugs straight into your rear-view mirror's existing power feed.

Drop the mirror cover to expose the mirror's power loom
Identify the switched 12V and ground wires (a multimeter helps)
Slip the spade plugs onto the matching wires — no cutting, no splicing
Tuck the tail along the headliner and refit the mirror cover

Option B — Fuse Tap (Bare Wire)

12V bare-wire tail. Taps a switched fuse slot for ignition-controlled power.

Ground: bolt the black ring terminal to any bare-metal chassis bolt
Power: connect the red wire to a switched fuse slot via a Fuse Tap
- Insert a 2A fuse into the slot furthest from the tap blade
- Place the original fuse into the remaining slot
- The original fuse must be rated higher than 2A
Tuck wires along the headliner and down the A-pillar

Option A — Mirror Tap

Option B — Fuse Tap

Not sure which one you have? Mirror Tap ends in two flat metal spade plugs. Fuse Tap ends in a red wire + black ring terminal.

💡

Pro tip: Always verify polarity and switched-vs-constant power with a multimeter before connecting. Wiring to a constant 12V source will drain your battery when the car's off.

Need a hand?

Mirror Tap is the cleanest install — no fuses, no splicing. Not comfortable with vehicle wiring? Any local car audio shop can finish either option in under 15 minutes.

Get in Touch Detector Mount Guide

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